Leicester Square Restaurant

It's easy to miss the Leicester Square Hotel. Nestled just off the frantic, bustling centre of theatre land – and a stone's throw away from Radisson older sister, The Hampshire – this unassuming sleeperie houses an impressive eaterie. Itchy is usually indifferent to hotel restaurants. Perhaps it was the fantastic and varied wine list, but this place can stand proud as one that quashed our sceptical mind. The menu is very accessible and not over-bearing. A starter of rare tuna fillet with cracked black pepper was an ideal opening, and just one of an outstanding array of fish and seafood dishes. The mains lean toward 'standards done well' and lamb cutlets served with light and creamy mashed potato and puréed peas does not disappoint. The service throughout was highly attentive and straddled that often difficult boundary between professional and friendly. Who can resist brown-bread ice cream for pudding? No really, it's fantastic and, after a sizeable (if a little unimaginative) cheese board, washed down with a very reasonable Margaux, we left the Leicester Square Restaurant beaming.

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