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La Piragua

Smoky, atmospheric and somewhat deranged, this South American restaurant is full of ex-pats, loud banter and strange goings on. It feels like a frontier town on market day and an international drugs ring convention all rolled into one. If that makes no sense it's because the whole place defies explanation. It's brilliantly cheap - the steaks are the biggest in London - and has a great low-key ramshackle feel, it's just impossible to shake the feeling that someone is going to high kick through the glass front any minute and shout.' You're all nicked' in Colombian. Or whatever.

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